Archive for June, 2007
To many the name ‘Whitehall‘ evokes ‘British Government’. And, indeed, the Houses of Parliament are at one end of the road running north from Parliament Square. But there’s much more along this major London artery than the Palace of Westminster, home to the House of Commons and the House of Lords.
The name derives from the original Palace of Whitehall, home to royalty and its ministers for centuries until destroyed by fire in 1698. Fortunately for today’s visitors The Banqueting House, completed in 1622, survived.
Used today for official receptions, the 17th century building is a remarkable work of art inside and out. One of the most outstanding examples of Italian Renaissance in London, the view from the street is spectacular.
But the interior is no less worth a visit. Inside, there are dozens of paintings, decorative items and furniture from the period and later. Visitors can also enjoy lunchtime concerts of classical baroque while they dine.
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Nearby are the beautiful Whitehall Gardens. Hosting several memorial sculptures, including one of the famous Gordon of Khartoum, the setting is a pleasant oasis within bustling London. Parts of the destroyed Palace of Whitehall can still be seen, including the wine cellars.
Further along are The Admiralty, the Ministry of Defence building and Horse Guards Parade. Be sure not to miss the two mounted Horse Guards, bedecked in colorful uniforms capped by plumed helmets. If you’re visiting in June, arrive in time to see the ‘Trooping the Color’ ceremony held to celebrate the Queen’s Official Birthday.
Continuing the military theme, Trafalgar Square merits a visit where you can see the statue of Lord Nelson in the plaza built to honor his victory at the Battle of Trafalgar. At least, you could if it weren’t atop a column 53m (174 ft) high.
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Fortunately, you don’t need binoculars to get a good look at the four bronze lions at the base. Designed by the renowned Sir Edwin Landseer, the large sculptures constitute some of his best work.
There are several other outdoor sights, including the Cenotaph. Designed to commemorate the fallen of WWI, the empty tomb is the site of a Royal ceremony held in November to honor them.
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A recent addition is the excellent Churchill Museum. Used by the famed statesman during WWII to house war planning activity, the Cabinet War Rooms and other areas have been completely restored to the period.
Visitors can see Churchill’s private living quarters within the War Rooms and there are dozens of memorabilia about. The £13.5 million ($24 million) Churchill Project has accurately depicted the scenes the British leader and his aides would have seen and lived with.
At the end, Whitehall becomes Parliament Street. Visitors can see Big Ben and (by prior arrangement) view debates from the public galleries of the House of Commons or the House of Lords. Tours are available for two months during the summer when Parliament is out of session (’not sitting’, as the British say).
Whitehall is easy to reach via the Tube (the London Underground, i.e. subway). Exit at Westminster.
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Got a soapbox you want to stand on? Then Hyde Park, London is the place to do it.
Perhaps most famous for the Speaker’s Corner, where citizens stand atop a soapbox and shout their views to the crowd, there’s much more to see and do here than listen to political opinions.
The land forming the park was first acquired by Henry VIII from the monks of Westminster Abbey in 1536. While Henry used the park for deer hunting, the horseback riding today is strictly not for sport.
Casual and relaxing, the trails are abundant but riders must bring their own horses. Visitors can often see the Royal Horse Artillery riding on horseback through the park early in the morning.
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First made accessible to the public by King James I in the early 17th century, the park is split by the Serpentine, a river dammed to make an artificial lake. The idea was originated by the wife of King George II, an avid gardener. Boat rides on the lake remain a popular activity.
Perhaps the oldest park in London, these 350 acres (140 hectares) contain peaceful walks through gardens and woods, boats for hire, venues for music concerts and is very nearby several stellar pubs and restaurants. There’s even a pet cemetery and during the summer, Sunday concerts are held at the Bandstand.
In the north east corner, at the end of Oxford Street is the famous Marble Arch. The structure was built as a gateway to Buckingham Palace but moved to the park in 1851.
Several monuments located in the park are worth a look. The latest tribute is to the late Diana, Princess of Wales. The fountain is surrounded by and composed of 545 pieces of Cornish granite and the water flows through a complex design into a calm pool. There are three bridges that cross the water over the heart of the fountain.
Sports abound on the many fields, including tennis (6 courts, with a changing pavilion and cafe), a six rink flat bowling green and spontaneous soccer games. The Magenge at the end of the Sports Field offers a children’s playground to amuse the younger kids.
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Nearby the park is the Four Seasons Hotel Bar where visitors thirsty from the activity can cool off and get refreshed in a wonderful, upscale environment. The Conservatory in Lanesborough offers a piano bar and great dining.
For those interested in something a little more lively, there’s the Met Bar at the Metropolitan Hotel. Patronized by celebrities, it remains a popular venue. The Rose & Crown pub in Mayfair is probably the rowdiest of the lot, for those who like their entertainment loud and crowded.
Then, there’s the Colony Club for those who like to gamble, and (for service personnel) the Royal Air Force Club isn’t far away. For great dining, the Petrus at The Berkeley Hotel is unbeatable, having rightfully earned its Michelin Star.
The park lies between Bayswater Road to the north and Knightsbridge to the south, with Park Lane to the east and Kensington Gardens to the west. The park is easily reached by the tube (the London Underground, the subway system). Exit at the Hyde Park Corner station.
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Whether you are fascinated with British history or not, The British Museum is certainly on place you should visit while in London.
Like most museums in London, The British Museum is free of admission (though some events and special exhibitions have an admission charge). But were it the most expensive attraction in the city, it would be worth the price. Often rated the number one tourist attraction, it houses millions of artifacts from around the world and through history.
Beginning with the collection that branched off to the Natural History Museum, for over 250 years the institution has offered viewers a chance to see history up close in large and small.
The museum gained a reputation for housing significant cultural artifacts as early as 1801 when it acquired the Rosetta Stone. Now displayed outside, this ancient slab contains writings in Egyptian and Greek from the Ptolemaic Period, circa 200BC. It was one of the earliest tools used for deciphering the hieroglyphs of ancient Egypt.
The theme is continued with the large collection of mummies housed in colorful sarcophagi along with statuary from all over the Middle East. Alongside them are a variety of non-human animal mummies, companions that were often buried with the rulers.
Ancient Greece is equally well represented in the form of a fragment of the Mausoleum of Halikarnassos, though the highlight of the section is unquestionably the famous Elgin Marbles. Purchased by Lord Elgin in 1816 from a Turkish Sultan (who ruled Greece at the time), these magnificent works were carved around 440BC. Once a part of the Parthenon, the statuary resides in the Duveen Gallery designed by the architect of the Jefferson Memorial.
Ancient Rome’s influence on Britain is not neglected either. The Weston Gallery houses dozens of items from the Mildenhall Treasure of 4th-century tableware. And, in the next room, visitors can gaze at the Sutton Hoo Treasure. Dating from the 7th century the many swords and helmets, often sporting rubies and sapphires, make a fitting adjunct to the Dark Ages king’s shield displayed.
From a period long before the Roman invasion of Britain, there’s a heavily visited item called ‘the Peat Marsh man’. Discovered by archaeologists in a Cheshire peat marsh, the body of this 1st century unfortunate is believed to be that of a victim of ritual sacrifice.
But objects far outside Europe are also on display. There are examples of Native American hunting artifacts from 10,000 years ago. There are the Sainsbury African Galleries housing ivory, gold and ancient wooden masks. And, in the Korean Foundation Gallery there are numerous porcelain artifacts from Asia.
But be sure to save some time to focus not just on the items housed, but the container. The building and several rooms are themselves cultural artifacts worth seeing.
From its Ancient Greek facade on the exterior to the 19th century round Reading Room in the interior, the British Museum itself is an artwork the equal of any it contains.
The British Museum is easy to reach via the London Underground, i.e. ‘the tube’ or subway. Exit at Russell Square. For a preview of the 90 galleries covering 14-acres, see the web site at:
http://www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk/
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